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Issue 1
What is Blackwork?
by Linn R. Skinner
I have tried to carefully define my personal theory of this
catchall sort of phrase. I agree with some people on some aspects and not
on others. Some of my opinions have been garnered from classes or from reading
and others from personal observation. As with anyone else who has a theory,
mine is just that, a collection of opinions. I do urge everyone to look
at every example they see labeled as "blackwork" and at embroidery in
general and to develop their own personal theories. I'll
be interested in hearing them all. My opinions are seldom carved in
stone; they are prone to change if a better opinion comes along.
Era of Execution
There have been two distinct periods when embroidery identified as 'blackwork"
has been popular. First in the 16th/17th century or the Historic Period
and secondly in the 20th century Revival or Modern Period. One must define
a period before one can talk about the design elements appropriate to this sort
of embroidery.
Design Elements
Two sorts of design elements are commonly used in all periods: outlining
or defining elements and filling elements.
Outlining Elements
Outlining elements are either curvilinear or geometric
in nature. Curvilinear elements are found in both
historic and modern periods but most predominately in
the historic period. Geometric outlining elements are most favored in the
modern period. However, examples of both sorts of elements are found in
historic pieces and in revival period pieces.
Filling Elements
Filling elements can be random, diaper, repeat
or linear. Random elements
are found in the Historic Period exclusively (in my experience to date).
These are the seeding or speckling stitches done to imitate shading of engravings
and are used in Historic Period embroidery.
Areas may also be filled in a solid fashion by various stitches such as stem,
braid, chain or other stitches or couched metallic threads.
Diaper elements are those patterns in which one sees horizontal, vertical and
true diagonal lines, when turned from the original position to 90° or 45°.
When turned 90 degrees, the original pattern does not change.
Repeat elements are those where the motifs are separated, but repeated, making
a diaper or an offset repeat.
Linear elements are patterns in which one sees horizontal, vertical, diagonal
or oblique stripes.
APPROPRIATE MATERIALS
Historic Period
In the 16th/17th century blackwork designs would most likely have been executed
on either silk or linen fabric with black silk and metallic threads although speckling
designs are found in reds, blues and greens.
In England, on clothing items, the favored color was black on white. When the
same designs were executed on samplers or household linens, they may be found
in pastels or other colors (green, red, etc.).
Modern Period
Today blackwork designs are found in all sorts of colors and executed with many
different fibers. It is great fun to experiment with
various fibers and fabrics. If geometric designs are to be executed,
a fabric in which the threads (evenweaves or linens) or the elements (Aida or
Hardanger) can be counted is utilized so the designs are executed in a precise
manner.
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