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Chinese Opera Costume
Detail - Opera Costume
Chinese, late 19th century

 

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logo A Magazine of Embroidery and other Needlecraft - Past, Present and Future

Stitch On Line from the Skinner Sisters

ISSN: 1526-9094

Issue 4
COSTUME EMBROIDERY - FIRST ART?

BY LINN SKINNER

It would seem to me that costume embroidery was undoubtedly the first sort of embroidery.  It would have developed after the skills of  garment construction.  In some societies I would think embellishment of garments with embroidery occurred prior to spinning and weaving as animal hide garments were decorated to denote status and societal affiliations.

Human society is one of constant striving for power and lust for personal adornment. I believe this led to costume embroidery at a very early date.  Early archeological finds demonstrate embellishment of garments with woven and embroidered design and early written accounts speak of embroidery. 

The bible (at Exodus) offers our earliest embroidery instructions.  It tells of the requirements for embroidering the priestly garments.  We have continued to embroider garments for use in religious ceremony throughout mankind's history.

At first embroidery on wearing apparel and accessories was undoubtedly a luxury enjoyed only by those at the upper levels of the social, economic, political and religious segments of societies.  As economies and trade opportunities expanded, embroidery became available to an ever-increasing number of members of any world culture. 

European crusades to the east exposed Christians and other adventurers to luxury goods not previously known to (or at least not widely known) to the ordinary citizen of Western Europe.

Further expansion of the 16th and 17th centuries as well as colonization brought increasing trade.  More people joined the middle class and could afford imported textiles and fibers.  Their buying habits increased investment and trade in these goods and a golden age of embroidery was launched.  As well as decorating their homes with these new riches, the royal and the just plain rich, adorned themselves.   Embroidery to reflect rank or affiliation was used as badges attached to costume or made an integral part of wearing apparel.

As time went on, the rich bought their costume ready decorated with embroidery, or commissioned the work to be done by others.  Those of modest means embroidered their own dresses, monogrammed shirts for their male friends and stitched many a wisp of fine lawn for wear by the babies and children of their families.

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